In the southern state of Tamil Nadu, two cities have earned the moniker of “temple cities,” boasting a plethora of Siva and Vishnu temples within their boundaries. One such city is Kanchipuram, the former capital of the Pallavas from the 3rd to the 9th century AD. The other city, Kumbakonam, serves as the bustling business hub of the Thanjavur district.
Kumbakonam, known in ancient Devaram hymns as Kudamukku, meaning “pot-nose” (kudam – pot, mukku – nose), finds mention in the songs of St. Appar and St. Tiru Jnanasambandhar from the 7th century AD. This name is reflected in the Chola inscriptions of the time. The principal deity of the Kudamukku temple is Kumbhesvarar, who also presides over the grand Mahamagam festival, a once-in-12-years event in the city. The name “Kumbakonam” itself derives from this association with Kumbhesvara of Siva. The temple, dedicated to Kumbhesvarar and his consort Devi Mangalambika, is the largest, most magnificent, and ancient in the city.
Apart from this prominent temple, two other Siva temples, Kudandaik-Kilkkottam and Kudandaik-karonam, have hymns dedicated to them by the Nayanmar. The Nagesvara temple, a superb creation of Chola art, may have been constructed by Aditta Chola (871 – 907 AD), known for embellishing the banks of the Kaveri with a thousand temples dedicated to Lord Siva.
Kumbakonam is also home to three significant Vishnu shrines. The Sarangapani temple, featuring the city’s tallest tower at 146 feet, is dedicated to the presiding deity Aravamudan, praised in hymns by the alvars. Legend has it that a song about this temple led Nathamunihal to discover the Nalayirapprabandham, a collection of hymns that were obscure until then. The Ramaswami temple, though not as ancient, boasts remarkable sculptures from the Nayak period, while the Chakrapani temple represents the third Vishnu shrine.
Situated between the rivers Kaveri and Arisilaru, Kumbakonam serves as the central point for five shrines known as the Pancha-krosa sthalas, situated approximately 11 miles apart. These shrines include Tiruvidaimarudur, Tirunagesvaram, Darasuram, Swamimalai, and Patalivanam (Karuppur). Additionally, there are several other temples of minor importance, such as Banadurai Abbimukhesa, Gowthamesa, and Virabbadra, contributing to the rich tapestry of religious and cultural heritage in Kumbakonam.
